Your Phoenix mandolin is a hand-crafted precision instrument, made of the finest materials with the greatest care. With reasonable care on your part, it should last for centuries with nothing more than the replacement of worn frets. If a structural or construction defect is found, and the original owner has registered the mandolin, the builder will repair it without cost to the original owner at the Phoenix shop. But the maintenance of the instrument is the owner's responsibility; please read the following maintenance instructions.

Set up: If the mandolin was shipped by Phoenix to you, you will find the strings loosened, and the bridge taped exactly where the intonation is best. DO NOT REMOVE THE TAPE HOLDING THE BRIDGE DOWN. Remove all other tape and put some tension on the strings. As you bring the strings to pitch, they will pull the bridge off perpendicular toward the fingerboard. Place the mandolin in your lap, neck away from you. Put your thumbs on the bridge base on the tailpiece side and your forefingers on the saddle on the neck side. Using your thumbs to keep the bridge base from moving, slightly pull the top of the bridge--lightly at first then more firmly--toward the tailpiece bringing the bridge back to perpendicular to the top; tightening the strings tends to tilt the bridge toward the fingerboard. You will have to do this more than once. Remember to do this whenever you change strings or retune. Now you can remove the tape holding the bridge in place. If you have to remove the bridge at any time, there are arrows on the base and saddle that should point toward the fingerboard.

The instrument in general needs the kind of care that all wooden musical instruments need: avoidance of extremes of temperature or humidity or rapid changes of temperature or humidity. That can cause cracking and other damage. The instrument is built with well-dried wood, but if the humidity of your area averages less than 40% or if you travel extensively with the instrument, you will want to purchase a violin humidifier or a case humidifier and keep that in use with the instrument generally in two-day cycles: two days in the case, two days without. (See What about Humidity? for more about this topic.) Shock is also a problem for an acoustical stringed instrument even in this kind of custom-fitted case; handle carefully. For best protection, keep the mandolin in the case when not being played. The mandolin fits best into the case headstock end first. For lengthy storage or rough travel, loosen the strings several turns.

The finish is the finest waterborne hybrid varnish. It is very durable but should be protected with a high quality silicon-free guitar polish or natural wax, especially the neck. Also, the permanent softening agents in some rubbers, vinyls, plastics, hand lotions, and especially bug sprays with DEET can damage this kind of finish, so keep these things away from the instrument. If there is a small scratch or mark, it is better left alone since this is a thin finish on the resonant surfaces; some marks may sometimes be rubbed out with a very fine polishing compound (not a rubbing compound--that's too coarse), but there is a danger of rubbing entirely through the finish. Dust the mandolin regularly with a soft old-time shaving brush and polish it with a soft rag.

The tuning machines should be trouble-free. The screw on the gears and the screw holding the buttons on may sometimes need tightening if the tension seems too loose, do so very carefully with an exact-fitting screwdriver--a #1 Phillips--and do not over-tighten the button screw as that will make tuning difficult.

Strings, as delivered, are: Ultra and Deluxe 1st-.011"; 2nd-.015"; 3rd-.024"; 4th-.038"; Standard, Bluegress and Master Model Bluegrass 1st-.011"; 2nd-.015"; 3rd-.026"; 4th-.040". Neoclassicals are delivered with Dr. Thomastik mediums (mittel). The Jazz model is delivered with Thomastik heavies (stark). Except on the Neoclassicals and Jazz, string sizes may be slightly increased by .001" or .002" for more "punch." Lighter strings than those provided are, of course, no problem, but may need the bridge height raised to avoid buzzes. There is no truss rod to adjust; a graphite bar from the headstock to the 20th fret stabilizes the neck and fingerboard. If it is necessary to remove all the strings, be certain to carefully mark the placement of the bridge with masking tape. Otherwise, if the bridge is moved, it may require a precision tuning device (or a great ear) to return it to its correct place. The bridge is individually fitted to each top so the arrow on the bottom of the bridge must point toward the fingerboard.

If the mandolin is damaged, immediately remove the tension from the strings and call, write or e-mail for instructions for repair.

A solid ebony finger-rest can be retrofitted for $100. plus shipping. E-mail or write for information.